Thursday, November 18, 2010


The last two days have been fun but hard to take. The crowd has been soooooo crazy from the Triple Crown sometimes you have to catch waves that you normally wouldn't go for.
It's not always nice and easy surfing heavy barrels! I have been getting beat up the last two days by Mother Pipeline!!! I got slammed on the reef two times yesterday...
I guess you gotta pay your dues....

My motto: Take a few on the waves on the head and get rewarded with a mental BARREL!!!!
Hopefully I get rewarded soon hahaha!!!! Those beatings aren't so fun!!


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